Door 73, the cosmopolitan gastropub that Ghent did not have yet.

It is common knowledge that the city of Ghent is on the up and up. The city is in a duel with Antwerp when it comes to the hippest (eating) places, hotels, fashion stores and personalities. In the gastronomic landscape, too, a tough Ghent-Antwerp battle is brewing. In the Ghent gastronomic camp they can count on a heavyweight: Marcelo Ballardin, the roguish Italo-Brazilian conquered many a Flemish living room with his charming accent. He did not become the smartest person, but perhaps the smartest businessman. After he let Oak shoot to a Michelin star, today he gives his second baby Door 73 every chance through his companion chef Eric Ivanidis. The duo were recently rewarded by Gault Millau as the best gastro bistro in the country. Time to discover this gem.

When we open the door of Door 73 on a cold December day, we are immediately in the warm glow of the cocktail bar. The building, a former bakery, was decorated with great sense of aesthetics. Blue velvet cushions, shelves with a few culinary masterpieces on them and a restaurant area that looks out onto the open kitchen. At the start of the evening, there is already a friendly bustle in the kitchen, which is professionally managed by the chef Eric Ivanidis. Eric, who is of Greek origin, met Marcelo during a joint apprenticeship at the Pure-C in Cadzand, under the starring of Syrco Bakker and Sergio Herman. Marcelo remains visible in the background of this affair, although the symbiosis between the two gentlemen does produce fireworks on the plate. Still, Marcelo lets Eric have his way with the menu and gets a huge autonomy.

The hand of Eric

Freedom is happiness and you can feel it in the approach of the whole staff. There is a cheerful relaxed atmosphere and with great enthusiasm they are happy to explain the concept of the business. We are explained that it is actually a gastropub concept where the intention is to share the dishes with each other. “Choice stress?” it says at the bottom of the menu…sure we have with so many goodies on offer! And so we went for the solution offered, or The Journey of Flavours. The title was a very fitting choice!

The Journey of Flavours

Before we enter the “culinary part” we are first served a “smokey negroni“. The smoke does indeed add a great deal of value and we imagine ourselves instantly in an Italian bootleg pub with dark figures around us. It turns out to be the beginning of a feast where the senses are fully stimulated.

The first dish that immediately stuns us is the vitello tonato, façon Eric. We get a super airy cake containing a velvet cream of tuna served with a veal carpaccio. Simply sublime and absolutely a signature dish. And a pot of Mediterranean scallops and razor shells let us dream away to a sultry Cretan evening with too much delicious Kitima. The chef surprises by serving a pigeon chicken on the table grill. Perfectly roasted and still juicy.

The chef is also not averse to a vegetarian excursion. The flavours of the miso, cauliflower and dukkah are surprisingly tasty. Before we went back into the night in Ghent, we could not resist the call of the Dame Blanche on the menu. Those who already know us a little, know that we make it a sport to search for the perfect Dame Blanche. After so many beautiful notes in the culinary symphony, this was perhaps an octave too low. At least in Belgium we have eaten a much better Dame Blanche.

A report to come home with

The dessert, however, does not linger in the overall assessment. Door 73 has set a standard in Ghent and beyond when it comes to innovative gastrobistro. It is guaranteed that after a visit you will leave with an urge to discover the world, fuelled by the cosmopolitan cuisine of Eric and his companion Marcelo. A little Manhattan in Ghent…

Practical:

Adres: Hoogstraat 73, 9000 GentOpeningstijden:

Telephone: 09 277 00 00
Website: https://www.door73.be/

Photo Credit Cover Picture: EllesVisuelles

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